A Weekend at Windup Watch Fair Dallas
Highlights from an alluring smorgasbord of watches and more
Maybe everything really is bigger in Texas. In stark contrast to a dust storm enveloping the city—and the author while driving—just the day before, revelers turned out in droves under warm and sunny skies at the Saturday opening and again on Sunday for the inaugural Windup Watch Fair in Dallas this past weekend. Greeted by a long line to get into the packed event, attendees stuck it out with the promise of what awaited them inside. And their patience was well-rewarded—exhibitors provided attendees with a fantastic variety of watches and other intriguing offerings in a beautiful venue provided by the thoughtful planning of the Worn & Wound crew.
Windup Watch Fair’s magnetism lies chiefly in presenting novel products to the attendees, whether from established brands such as Oris and Christopher Ward or from one of the many hungry startups. You won’t find the giants of the industry occupying the booths here, beautiful but at times relatively adverse in their approach to challenging designs. Rather, this is mostly a venue for lesser-known brands looking to take chances and innovate in the hopes of rising above the crowded market. Though the dust (and gusts) settled in time for the show, here are some of the things that interested me most during a whirlwind weekend spent at the event.
Artefkt Watches
One of the most valuable aspects of attending Windup is the ability to speak with brand representatives directly, and in some instances with leadership or designers. From Brandon Little, founder of Detroit-based Artefkt Watches, there are no ambiguous answers to questions. It’s clear that Little knows every decision and intent—down to the name—behind his young brand as though they are an extension of himself.
Little confides that his greatest challenge of late was to boil down every detail for a potential customer to know about the watches into the trifold brochure now stacked atop his booth. After speaking with him last year in Chicago, again here in Dallas, and leaving both conversations thoroughly impressed with his encyclopedic knowledge of his products, I’m inclined to believe him. Coupled with an impressive resume of previous work with established watch brands, his attention to detail and holistic understanding of the intent behind the design is reflected clearly in the watches.
The Versa XC collection offers a variety of configurations and even customization, though the standout to my eye today is a matte black version on the table. The DLC-coated grade 5 titanium rectangular case shrouds a top line Sellita SW200 1B movement and provides a welcome departure from the sea of standard formats. Paired with a sand-colored rubber strap with integrated quick release lugs, it presents a handsome and rugged package. And boasting 200m of water resistance, the watch appears capable of biting just as hard as it barks.
Those who have worn rectangular pieces such as the Heuer Monaco or Apple Watch may be familiar with their tendency to wear surprisingly large on the wrist even with seemingly unremarkable measurements on paper. Little has sized his Versa XC lineup at 36mm across and 47.5mm lug-to-lug wisely, resulting in a package that might be mistaken as diminutive by those only looking only at the width on the spec sheet. In the metal, the watches are well balanced with very wearable dimensions though still packing a satisfyingly brawny wrist presence for a wide range of wearers, especially with its svelte 10.5mm thickness.
This particular Versa XC offers a subtle sunburst black dial with raised cream-colored Super-LumiNova circular indices (elongated pill shapes at 12, 3, 6, and 9) beneath a coated sapphire crystal for a highly legible appearance. The resulting aesthetic evokes that of perhaps Panerai or Bell & Ross, though it still manages to be unique in its execution. The fixed hexagonal bezel encompassing the dial supports fully-lumed minute markers with decorative glyphs at 12, 3, 6, and 9. The dagger handset employs matching lume, providing excellent legibility and strong visual harmony with the dial. Starting at $1,450 it’s a tempting combination and one that very well might find its way to my wrist someday.
Praesidus D-Day Limited Editions
While Praesidus’ bread and butter is providing faithful reissues of some of the most recognizable watches issued during wartime and worn in combat, they still manage to have some tricks up their sleeves for bringing something new. Enter the D-Day Limited Editions, a small collection of watches packing massive historical punch.
The first standout from the collection, the Utah Beach A-11, is built on their well-executed reissue of the now famous A-11 watch from World War II. Priced at $495, the watch is updated to a modern and comfortable 38mm case diameter from the original 32mm measurements and employs other modern conveniences including 100m water resistance, Super-LumiNova hands, and a trusty Miyota 9039 automatic movement. In keeping with the vintage appeal, the dial is protected under a canopy of double-domed acrylic crystal.
The dial—available in black, green, or blue—is cut into the shape of the Normandy coastline complete with markers indicating the locations of the code-named landings for the Allied invasion of occupied France. And where the dial gives way it reveals the watch’s most unique attribute; sand collected directly from Utah Beach. I’m told this has been done with the permission from the local government and the Utah Beach Landing Museum, ensuring a respectful execution of the concept. The result is incredibly compelling, not only as a visually stunning moment with truly unique qualities (no two watches will be the same) but with strong historical and material tie-ins to the legendary watch and the momentous battle it commemorates.
The other standout in the collection, the C-47, offers the same specs as the A-11 albeit with lumed indices on the dial, a different approach to the numerals and handset, and a slightly higher price tag at $550. Though once again, the execution of the dial is where this piece shines. Praesidus has sourced and cut aluminum from the door panels of a C-47 Skytrain transport plane that participated in the airborne operations during D-Day, dropping paratroopers behind enemy lines prior to the invasion on the beaches. Utilizing this material, each dial has unique scratches and character, no doubt some of these scars gained during its participation in the notable operation. While patina is so often simulated or heritage is manufactured in the watch industry, these offerings contain incredible pieces of historical legitimacy within their cases.
Old is New
Sometimes the newest design is actually quite old. The Watch Preserve, a Fort Worth-based vintage watch dealer, certainly reinforces this paradox. Boasting a table filled with all kinds of vintage watch delicacies ranging from makers overt to obscure, The Watch Preserve provided multiple curiosities for the passer-by. The atmosphere here was further heightened by a live art performance from the artist Sunflowerman as he painted and drew various watches to the side of the booth. Indeed, purchasing vintage watches can be a risky venture with the many pitfalls of questionable service history and condition. But from a trusted seller, the doors swing wide open to a trove of incredible designs.
It occurred to me with widening eyes and a broadening grin at the sight of the many stunning pieces on display that Windup wasn’t just about experiencing the very latest or bleeding edge, but more about finding the truly unique and uncommon. And while the vast majority of the brands in attendance offered this through new and bold creations, The Watch Preserve reached back into time to show us just how inspiring vintage designs still are today. It was a gorgeous bounty of oddities and legendary pieces alike—wearable time capsules in every sense.
My glowing attitude towards the intoxicating assortment of vintage design stimulus was clearly shared by the others in attendance as the booth was consistently visited throughout the day. I bore witness as Zach Weiss (Co-Founder and Executive Editor of Worn & Wound) succumbed to the charms of a vintage 24-hour movement Gallet chronograph—great choice, Zach—becoming the proud new owner of something beautiful and old.
Perhaps the biggest draw at this booth was something, well, big. The Watch Preserve team also brought along their giant working mechanical movement for display, an apparent educational device or sales motivator with origins unknown. While not for sale, it proved popular with attendees and exhibitors alike, both the object and mystery behind it too compelling to ignore.
The People
Despite all the fine baubles on display, one thing will always rise above at Windup Watch Fair—the people. In the face of uncertainty at this new location in its first year, Dallas did not disappoint. The outpouring of interest and attendance was a sight to behold with a packed event space and waiting line often extending out the doors and nearly the length of the building. Once inside there was not a frown to be seen, only amused attendees sharing handshakes and smiles notwithstanding the mix of delight and slight trepidation exhibited on the faces of the Worn & Wound team reckoning with this rapidly growing monster they had helped create.
Amongst the exhibitors, facilitators, and attendees, I have enjoyed forming friendships these past few years as the event travels to Chicago, and here was another opportunity to connect and spend time with these same familiar faces. I’ve recently waxed poetic around my affection for watch gatherings in a previous entry, and Dallas served as a strong reminder for those sentiments. And then there are the many new faces and occasional conversations with excited strangers about the watch they spy on your wrist or likewise on theirs. Each watch fair also brings with it an international presence, and I’m often intrigued by the many accents exotic to this Minnesotan’s ear. Even the distance I travelled seemed a novelty to some, at times likely betrayed by my own accent—yes, if you’ve seen the movie Fargo many of us really do sound like that.
Whether from near or far, faces familiar or new, Windup Watch Fair brings together those who share a similar curiosity and compulsion. We are drawn to see and experience, and while some leave the event with new purchases and others empty handed, we all leave with fond memories and time well spent.
Adios, Texas.
–M
Great write-up. Brought me right back to my trip Chicago Wind Up (where we met briefly). I hope to get back to a show sometime soon.
Living in Dallas, I was surprised to see Wind Up coming to Dallas and only learned it was the week prior to the event with Oak & Oscar sharing a happy hour they were hosting the Thursday before the event. Unfortunately, I was out of town for a wedding, but hope the event returns next year. Thanks for sharing your coverage, Matt!