There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. I’m often reminded of this nearly ubiquitous saying for those of us who live in the Great Lakes region of the United States. The daytime temperatures here have ranged from -15 degrees F to 55 degrees these last two weeks of February into March with all matter of precipitation (8 inches of snow fell here just yesterday) requiring careful consideration around what to wear for even my short walks towards my daily dose of quad espresso. As I’ve recently committed to writing more regularly, it can be a struggle to find the inspiration for my next entry. Lucky for me, this topic seems to have fallen out of thin air, maybe literally. I should be thankful for the sometimes uncomfortable inspiration from the planet—snotsicles dangling from my beard and all—and even more thankful for the sturdy Filson wool coat wrapping my frame.
If you’ve read my first few entries or have made the jump from my Instagram feed, you’ve likely noticed that I’m fond of products and designs that stand the test of time. I’m especially fond of those that pair durability with a great story. For over 100 years, garment manufacturer Filson has provided some of the most iconic and revered outerwear for doing battle with almost anything the elements can muster.
With roots planted firmly in Seattle since its beginnings in 1897, proprietor C. C. Filson built a name for himself and the company based on decades of serving outdoor professionals and adventurers alike. Filson in particular rose to prominence with foresters and those in search of fortune during the Great Klondike Gold Rush in need of rugged outdoor workwear for protection from the elements. While much has changed around the brand including advances in textile technology, company structure, target markets, and of course pricing, staples of the storied lineup have survived and thrive, especially the legendary Filson Cruiser.
Function Before Fashion
Filson launched the Cruiser in 1912 first as a shirt, quickly finding success in North America after its release. It evolved shortly thereafter into the jacket we know it as today, gaining more popularity as a result. It’s numerous and well-appointed pockets offered its first wearers valuable real estate for stowing tools or protecting maps in the large back pocket it eventually came to feature. The Cruiser would go on to provide hunters and sportsmen a similar utility for their necessities, though the back pocket may have been more likely to stow slain quarry than a map.
By the 1960s, Cruisers were famous with a wide appeal to outdoorsmen worldwide and available in several options, notably in their two most legendary and earliest fabrics; an oiled/waxed cotton later known as Tin Cloth and a wool twill later known as Mackinaw Wool. This wool derived its name from the Mackinaw coats from Canadian lumber camps quickly gaining popularity in the early 1900s, the first Mackinaw coat introduced to the United States through a woolen mill in Duluth, MN. The Filson Cruiser wasn’t far behind. While advancements in textiles for outdoor gear have been numerous and meaningful in their improvements, the Cruiser has persisted as a functional piece of heritage built largely of the same materials and methods used at the onset—even becoming a style icon.
Stubbornly sewn in the Pacific Northwest (though today only the Mackinaw Cruiser and Wool Packer of those mentioned here) since its release, it’s also remained a symbol of American workwear, largely impervious to the shifting realities of the industry. And while the aforementioned challenges continue to threaten its status, the Cruiser persists.
Today, there are more options for the Cruiser than ever before, including iterations built on its frame such as the Double Mackinaw Cruiser and Packer Coat. Each offers a different level of protection from the elements for which it was designed, making the Cruiser a stand-out offering with a common platform for year-round wear.
The Tin Cloth Cruiser
Following the success of the original Cruiser in wool, Filson released the design in their equally famous fabric—Tin Cloth. The material, marketed as “waterproofed khaki” in the 1920s, was a waxed cotton canvas (perhaps ironically) imported in partnership with famous British manufacturers such as Britain Millerain. With its waterproofing capabilities and rugged durability, the garment found quick success amongst the outdoor workers of the Pacific Northwest.
From it’s origins through today, the material has undergone minimal changes overall such as reduced canvas weights and different formulas for the oil wax used to provide a softer, more pliable feel to the fabric introduced in the early 1990s. Products built in the famous Tin Cloth are also available without the oil wax coating and are denoted as Dry Tin Cloth. And while the Tin Cloth Cruiser has traditionally been a domestic stalwart, production of most (if not all) Tin Cloth products has recently been outsourced.
The material does provide advantages in terms of durability vs. many of the more waterproof alternatives, though to remain water resistant it requires maintenance and reapplication of the oil wax to the garment. While it may sound like more work to maintain, this adds another draw to the garment to some—it's ability to showcase hallmarks of wear and aging. As the material is waxed, it cannot be washed in a machine without a time intensive process of removing the protective coating. As such, most owners simply wipe away any dirt or even hose off what they can and reapply the oil finish wax as needed. What remains and builds over time is obvious character through the way the material darkens with the oil and wax, and to many Filson owners it is a desirable trait not only for its aesthetic but as a visible badge of honor for using the product as intended.
Like fading raw denim through honest wear, the characteristics in the results are one-of-a-kind and virtually impossible to simulate. It conforms to your body and movements in a unique way and, given its durability and limited lifetime warranty, encourages the wearer to use the garment as intended. The Tin Cloth Cruiser is best utilized in mild or warmer conditions as protection from precipitation or moisture, but can be used year-round with proper insulating layers as a shell.
The Mackinaw Wool Cruiser
The original Wool Cruiser became—and remains—Filson’s most recognizable item. Filson has long been famous for their Mackinaw Wool, a 24 or 26 oz twill provided by some of the most notable wool suppliers in the United States such as Pendleton over its lifespan. Today, much of Filson’s wool is imported, though the garment is still sewn locally.
Originally offered in a red and black buffalo plaid wool, the Cruiser is now available in the same original plaid as well as forest green, navy, and charcoal. Filson also regularly releases limited edition or special plaids seasonally, providing a variety of choices and unique offerings.
The jacket is well-suited to temperatures hovering around freezing or higher, and can be layered with other garments such as the Tin Cloth Cruiser for improved warmth or waterproofing. Wool is well known for its ability to insulate even when wet, its breathability, and its anti-microbial properties, making the Mackinaw Cruiser an excellent all-arounder.
Functional aspects aside, the Mackinaw Cruiser in particular has risen to the status of an icon, synonymous with American-made heritage and workwear. In more recent years the Cruiser has also served as a collaboration point with other storied brands—even famous musicians. While it was certainly designed for function, it does stylishly betray its humble foundations with a rugged handsomeness in its lines, numerous and neatly-designed pockets, coated metal snaps, and beautiful fabric. Though some Filson die-hards may balk at the relatively new-found fashion status it now boasts, it continues to reach different generations and demographics regardless of labels.
The Double Mackinaw Cruiser
Similar to the Cruiser in overall design, the Double Mackinaw Cruiser includes one key addition—a second layer of wool in the inclusion of a cape. This additional material provides increased insulation across the core and arms, resulting in a considerably warmer garment.
Originally offered in plaid, Filson expanded the color options over time, though not quite to the same extent as the more popular classic Cruiser. With its bulkier silhouette and thicker drape, the Double Mackinaw Cruiser tends to remain more of a functional choice than a fashion statement.
The Double Mackinaw Cruiser has been in and out of the modern catalog, and more recently has been offered as a seasonal release. As it enjoyed a long stretch of regular production through the early 2000s, used examples can regularly be found on eBay or local sales boards depending on your location.
The Packer Coat
The Packer Coat is the king of the cruisers. Whether it’s the Wool Packer or the Tin Cloth Packer, both are the most indomitable garments Filson offers in the classic Cruiser lineage. While very few owners will use the coat for its intended purpose of packing gear on horseback through the mountains, anyone familiar with exposure to harsh elements or bitter cold conditions would appreciate the utility it provides.
The classic Tin Cloth Packer, with similarities to the Double Mackinaw pattern though built in Tin Cloth instead of wool, offers double-layered protection against wet conditions and brush. Finished with a wool collar, the garment also allows for use of a zip-in wool liner to considerably improve the garment’s protection from cold temperatures. While previous versions of the Tin Cloth Packer offered a regular collar more true to the Double Mackinaw design, the revised version is defined by a shawl wool collar similar in form to the Wool Packer, but considerably more understated than the large shearling of the latter.
The Wool Packer is the ultimate evolution of the Mackinaw Cruiser design. The wearer enjoys the all the benefits of the double-layered wool construction in addition to substantial protection from the elements with the shearling collar deployed and buttoned around the neck. It’s also slightly longer in the body than the Double Mackinaw and in recent years has been given a twill liner, improving ease of movement over other under layers as well as slightly improving its wind resistance.
It’s far from a subtle garment, generally sporting a sizable, high-contrast natural shearling for the collar with darker wool in the body. And it’s definitely not cheap at its regular retail price. However, it represents a pinnacle garment from this storied brand rewarding the wearer with tremendous function, finish, and attention to detail. Filson has recently taken to releasing a unique combination of the wool and shearling each fall, introducing a limited edition aspect to this heavyweight in the lineup and a demonstration of artistry through unique and beautiful wools and shearling.
Extended Family
While these four examples represent the core of Filson’s classic Cruiser lineup, several other iterations of the Cruiser have been offered throughout the company’s catalog. The Short Cruiser, for example, provides the classic layout of the regular Cruiser in a cropped package similar to the famous trucker jacket silhouette and has proven to be an extremely popular addition. Filson has offered the jacket in Tin Cloth, denim, wool, and several other specialty fabrics—even leather.
Central to Filson’s brand story has been their involvement with the US Forest Service, and any article about the Cruiser would be remiss not to mention the Forestry Cloth Cruiser. Filson offered (and still does) a tightly woven, forest green worsted wool Cruiser that is of a lighter weight than Mackinaw Wool, but still provides the wearer with the natural benefits of the material for operating in more temperate climates such as the forests of the Pacific Northwest. They (and other Filson products) are still enjoyed by some US Forest Service members today.
Filson has also released the Cruiser in a long or duster coat pattern, one called the Tin Cloth Duster Coat and the other the Long Mackinaw Wool Cruiser. The Tin Cloth Duster is a true tool garment and is intended to be worn in situations that require full length water protection and serves as a veritable piece of oil waxed cotton armor. Meanwhile, the Long Mackinaw Wool Cruiser is a much-overlooked but beautiful iteration of the Cruiser design. As the name implies, it elongates the pattern of the Cruiser to above knee-length, providing considerably more body coverage than a standard cruiser. Earlier versions also provided a deployable parade vent, creating a handsome silhouette that resembles an army great coat.
The Cruiser Today
Throughout its many re-imaginings and iterations, the Filson Cruiser has maintained a legendary status and cult following for the duration of its production. Whether it’s the original or any of the adapted versions discussed above (even those unmentioned) the platform provides a foundation for which to build seemingly any purpose-based outerwear upon.
While Filson continues to produce excellent garments, a changing world, viable competition, and other factors at times threaten its unique story and brand proposition. Prices have climbed sharply and many might find the price tags dangling on their garments today eye-watering regardless of the brand’s legendary status. Time will tell if the Cruiser can remain viable and true to its humble roots. But if the last 100 or so years are any indication, it will endure—and chances are with the right Filson Cruiser on your back you’ll weather the storm just fine, too.
–M