Yet More Watch Content
My favorites from the silly season of watch releases
Feeling that Watches and Wonders burn? While it’s like Christmas for many watch enthusiasts (myself included) seeing the many new releases this time of year, the onslaught of information can prove overwhelming by the end of the week. So I’ll be brief—if you still have some gas left in the tank for watch-related content, here are my favorite releases.
Breitling—Top Time B01 Martini Racing
Breitling, though not involved in the event, stole some thunder with the Top Time Martini Racing, one of the 3 colorways in their newly-announced B01 lineup. Of the set, the Martini is the clear standout. If the motorsport vibes aren’t obvious enough in the format, the famous Martini racing livery surely pushes it all the way over. Racing-inspired chronographs are at their best when they capitalize on colors with bold flair and the Top Time B01 offers this in spades. On top of its great aesthetic, the spec sheet indicates a very wearable 38mm diameter stainless steel case at 13.07mm thick with 100m of water resistance. Underneath the hood you’ll find the automatic Breitling 01 chronograph movement offering 70 hours of power reserve—more than enough time to endure LeMans. I’ll pump the brakes at the $7,700 price tag, but it still manages to get my heart racing. More information is available here.
Tudor—Black Bay Pro Opaline
While the Black Bay Pro is nothing new, it was only a matter of time before Tudor introduced a polar version borrowed from the obvious Explorer II DNA of its big brother Rolex. Even as a proud 16570 Polar owner myself, I must say this thing is compelling. Sure, Tudor could have made it more svelte than the somewhat chunky 14.6mm thickness given their demonstrated ability to do so with the Black Bay 58 GMT. But even then, I think too much is being made about the measurement itself given the 39mm diameter stainless steel case still proves comfortable for a wide range of wrists. Though I’ve enjoyed brief encounters with the black-dialed predecessor and found it comfortable, I’ll reserve final judgment on that front until I’m able to spend more time with one on the wrist. Until then, the self-winding Calibre MT5652 with 70 hours of power reserve, screw down crown, and 200m of water resist (double that of the Explorer II) all come together in a formidable package. And while $4,375 is nothing to scoff at, it’s less than half the price of the Explorer II. More information is available here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre—Reverso Tribute Geographic in Stainless Steel
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watch that needs no introduction. Despite its classic design and time-tested appeal, JLC still pushes the envelope within the well-established lineup. Enter the Reverso Tribute Geographic—while the watch provides the wearer with a classic sunburst blue-dialed time and date format familiar to the watch on the front face, flipping to the reverse side (the classic Reverso party trick) reveals a beautifully-executed world timer. It’s an elegant addition to the stalwart of sophistication that is the Reverso design and one more reason to fall in love with this bonafide classic. The manual-wound 834 movement provides 42 hours of power reserve and allows for a slender 6.07mm stainless steel case measuring 17.20mm across and 22mm tall. You’ll have to save your pennies to satisfy the $21,200 price tag, though you can reassure yourself you’re actually getting two timepieces in the deal. More information is available here.
IWC—Ingenieur Automatic 42
Another watch that requires no introduction, the IWC Ingenieur has become a mainstay of the IWC lineup with periodic updates keeping the format fresh. By far my favorite Gérald Genta-inspired design, there’s something about the Ingenieur in particular that has evolved and managed to avoid feeling like a product of its time. This year IWC has revisited a pure ceramic black case providing durability and fortifying the piece with a new-found rugged appeal. Inside the 42mm case with 100m water resistance beats a 82110 calibre automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve. And while the brawny diameter offers notable wrist presence, the 11.5mm thickness promises a comfortable wearing experience. Like the JLC, you’ll need to search your couch cushions for loose change to break the barrier of entry at $19,500, but the fortunate individual with the required quid will walk out the door with an awesome watch. More information is available here.
Notable Mention—the Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph
What on Earth is this? While many watch companies bring small adjustments to existing formats (and judging by my list are rewarded for doing so) credit Grand Seiko for doing…uh…that. I have no idea if I like it or not, but frankly more power to the folks over there for showing up with something that stops you in your tracks. Inside we have the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5, Grand Seiko’s new high-beat automatic chronograph movement good for 72 hours of running time. And in true Grand Seiko fashion, no detail is overlooked on the 43mm diameter, 15.6mm thick faceted titanium case providing 200m water resistance. The surgically-detailed dial presents textured elements that the company claims takes inspiration from a lion’s mane flowing in the wind. Cat’s got my tongue on this one—and in keeping with the unintentional theme of this list, you’ll have to order off the dollar menu for a while to match the lion’s share of $16,400. More information is available here.
That’s enough looking at watches this week for me—what were your favorites? Leave them in the comments below. Until next time, happy April and thanks for reading.
–M
Very well said! I’ll never be an owner of one most likely but I’ll always admire it.
Thoughts on the gold 1908 on the new bracelet? That was probably my favorite watch released even though I’m mostly a tool watch guy.